Auxerrois can sometimes cause confusion. First of all, there is the unclear origin. For a long time it was assumed that this white grape comes from the area of Auxerre, the trading town in the center of France, but that is not true.
Nor does auxerrois come from Germany, despite old writings in the Moselle that refer to the grape. Also, auxerrois has no relation with Cahors, although the local winegrowers there will come with their dark blue grape malbec if you ask for auxerrois.
No, most likely auxerrois simply comes from Alsace, where it is one of the most widely planted grapes to date. The name is said to have been derived from Auxois, as the Alsace used to be called.
After this grape lesson from the book Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson ao, we would of course like to know what auxerrois tastes like. In the past there wasn’t much to it. A neutral grape without fresh acids. It was not for nothing that it was mainly mixed with other grapes, which had more character.
However, young winegrowers in Alsace and just across the German border saw potential. Just like their peers in Luxembourg and the Netherlands, by the way. By keeping the yields limited, auxerrois suddenly turns out to yield real wine. Some winegrowers in Alsace have known this for a long time. They sold their 100% auxerrois wine as pinot blanc, which has a much better image.
Weingut Kranz in the Palatinate does not participate in such disguises. The name of their auxerrois is prominently displayed on the label and rightly so. We drank those from the wonderful year 2020.
Scented of lemon, lychee and anise, the wine is somewhere between dry and slightly plump. Now that the white asparagus can be bought for next to nothing, this auxerrois is almost mandatory.
Kranz Auxerrois 2020
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